Usually, no. If you have water damage or deep gouges in one area, I can often perform a "surgical" repair by replacing just the affected planks. The challenge is matching the existing finish, but it’s a much faster and cheaper alternative to tearing out an entire room.

Most clients prefer to pick out and purchase their own "finish" materials (the specific tile or wood they love) so they get exactly what they want. I’ll provide the exact measurements and a shopping list. I usually handle the "unseen" materials the, grout, underlayment, and fasteners to ensure they’re the right technical grade for the job.

I generally don't recommend it. For a tile floor to last without cracking, it needs a rock-solid, clean foundation. Putting new tile over old, flexible flooring is a recipe for popped tiles in six months. I prefer to strip it back to the subfloor and do it right the first time.

Most standard-sized bathrooms take about three days. Day one is demo and subfloor prep; day two is laying the tile; day three is grouting and finishing. You have to let the "mud" (thinset) cure overnight before you can walk on it or grout it, so it’s a process that can’t be rushed.

It depends on where it’s going. In a basement or a place with high humidity, engineered wood is often better because it’s more stable and won’t warp as easily. If it’s a main living area and you want something that can be refinished three times over the next 50 years, solid hardwood is the winner. I can help you look at your specific space and decide which makes more sense.